5 Things I Wish Every Stylist Knew About Razor Cutting

Can we talk about razor cutting for a second? Because I am absolutely obsessed — and I want you to be too.

There is something so magical about what a razor does to hair. The softness, the movement, the way it just falls. When done well, razor cutting creates texture and dimension that scissors simply cannot replicate. But there is a right way and a wrong way to approach it, and the difference matters more than you might think.

I just put together a YouTube video sharing the five tips I wish every stylist knew before picking up a razor. You can watch the video by clicking down below...!

But I also wanted to go deeper here on the blog, because these principles deserve more than a quick tip — they deserve to be part of how you think every single time you reach for your razor.

1. Always Evaluate the Hair First

Before you ever open your razor, you need to know exactly what you're working with. Run your fingers through the hair. Feel the texture, the density, the porosity. Look at the condition — not just what your client tells you, but what the hair is actually telling you.

This step is non-negotiable for me. I will not razor cut hair that is extremely damaged, and I strongly advise against it on very kinky or curly textures. A razor on compromised hair creates breakage, frizz, and results that nobody wants. When in doubt, put the razor down and reach for scissors instead. Your client's hair health always comes first.

2. Prep the Hair with a Good Spray

If the hair feels a little dry or lacks slip, don't skip the prep step. I love using a light spray before I begin — it helps the razor glide smoothly, reduces friction, and actually helps style the hair as I'm cutting. It's like getting two steps done at once.

My personal favorites right now are the Sweet Spirit Leave-In Conditioner from Innersense and the SuperWater from Cult & King. Both give just enough moisture and slip without weighing the hair down. Your razor — and your clients — will thank you.

3. Use Proper Tension

This one sounds simple, but it is so often where stylists go wrong. Proper tension is everything with a razor. Too loose and the hair slides out from under you, creating uneven results. Too much and you risk pulling and breakage.

You want firm, consistent control over each section — not a death grip, but a confident hold. This is something you develop over time and with practice, so be patient with yourself as you build that feel.

4. Test First, Then Remove Weight

Here's one of my favorite habits: before committing to weight removal all over, I always test a few pieces in the back first. Let the hair tell you how it responds to the razor. Is it behaving? Is it giving you the softness and movement you're after?

If the hair is responding beautifully, then I'll continue with weight removal from the mids to ends. And an important rule — nothing too close to the root. Root area razor cutting can create unwanted bulk, and on damaged hair it's an invitation for breakage. Keep your razor work in the mid-shaft and ends where the magic really happens.

5. Create Inversions for That Signature Movement

This is where razor cutting gets really fun. One of my absolute favorite techniques is creating inversions — taking a section of hair, cutting one side, then cutting the other to create a point. Those little points are what give the hair those gorgeous flicks, bips, and bops that make a razor cut look alive.

Inversions add dimension and personality to a cut in a way that feels effortless and organic. Once you start playing with them, you will wonder how you ever cut without them. It is honestly one of the most satisfying techniques in my entire toolkit.

Ready to Go Deeper? ✨

If these tips lit something up in you and you are ready to truly master the razor, I want you inside my Razor Cutting Essentials course. This week only, you can grab it for just $47!

Inside, I walk you through everything — technique, tension, texture assessment, and all my favorite tips for creating razor cuts that clients absolutely rave about. This is the course I wish I had when I was starting out.

→ [Grab Razor Cutting Essentials for $47 — This Week Only]